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How to Paint Laminate and Veneer

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How to paint laminate or veneer

I ran into a little problem awhile back.  We were using some borrowed dressers that the owners needed back, so I started searching for some replacements.  I wanted something French country and curvy, and when I stumbled upon two dressers on KSL (Utah’s Craigslist) for $150, I was super excited.  We went out and bought them, hauled them home, and then I realized that CRAP–these are not solid wood (as claimed to be by the original owners) they were all veneer!  No wonder they were so shiny!  I like to think that I can tell the difference, but it was dark when we got them.

veneer dressers

I had this uncomfortable feeling in my stomach, feeling like I’d blown $150 on some crummy dressers, but after a little research, I decided to go for painting the veneer.  I’ve painted veneer before–yes, with chalk paint, and it didn’t work very well.  It just scratched right off.  So I decided to follow procedure to the T.  So follow along, and I will tell you how to paint laminate and veneer.

painting laminate

First, (after removing all the hardware) I lightly sanded down the surface.  I have a hard time not sanding at all, after one too many bad experiences.  What’s a few minutes sanding?  Then I wiped them down and used a Deglosser.  After that, I used an oil-based primer (Kilz brand) and rolled on 2 coats.

Now here is the crucial part which I have never taken stock in before…letting the primer dry for a full 7 days before putting on the real paint.  It is tempting to skip this, but I did not want these dressers to turn out badly.  I needed to redeem myself for the dumb purchasing error I’d made.  So I waited.  Paint takes longer to cure than you realize.  I think I ended up waiting more like 10 days because of bad weather.

I lightly sanded the primer and wiped it again.  Then I used my new paint sprayer to spray all those drawers and dressers.  My sprayer is great–I will save that for another post.

I sprayed 3 coats and let it dry for a few more days.  I then lightly distressed and sanded it again.  Then I sprayed a polyethylene coat to seal it.  I also decided to spray the hardware gold since the fake gold on it was flaking off pretty badly.  I will probably replace it in awhile, but there are a lot of handles and that will add up $, so I’m going to wait on that.

painting over veneer

Now for the real question:  How has it held up?  I didn’t really want to push my luck by taking a rake to it but so far it hasn’t chipped once.  It has helped up beautifully and the fresh coat of paint looks amazing on it.  Believe me when I say, this is a fool-proof way to get what you want.  If you are painting laminate, don’t skip steps because it is worth your extra effort.  If you take shortcuts you will end up regretting it, I promise.

How to Paint Laminate and/or Veneer:

  • Sand & Degloss surface
  • Oil-based Primer
  • Let primer cure for 7 days (no less!)
  • Paint over primer, several coats
  • Seal with poly or wax

Good luck!

33 Comments

  1. When I sanded, it made the surface rough. Which sand paper did ya used?

    Mark

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      I tend to use between 80 and 220, depending on what I want. For this project I would probably use no higher than 120 but not 80. It needs to be rough so paint can stick to it!

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      No, I actually painted with a regular latex paint on top of the Kilz oil-based primer.

  2. Thanks a bunch. I’m running into the same problem as you. I borrowed dressers from my parents when I first moved into my new home. Now they need them back and I can’t afford heavy wood yet. This will help me spruce up the veneer ones I’ve got to tie myself over until I can afford better ones.

  3. Can you share links to the supplies you used for this project? I would like to paint our Pottery Barn buffet that is black to a better color. No distressing just black and don’t want to pay someone $400 to do it for me!

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      Use an oil based primer (they sometimes are called laquer) but the best brands are KILZ or 123 Zinzzer. Paint that on and let it cure for a week. Then you can paint whatever paint you want on top.

  4. Michelle Bruckner says:

    I still want to use chalk paint, if I sand and degloss, do you think it will stick?

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      It should, chalk paint is supposed to stick even without sanding. You might want to test it in an area and wait a couple days. Then try to scratch it off. If it scratches off I would try sanding it. Laminate is tricky!

  5. a friend told be about deglosser, I thought that product could or would eliminate the sanding step?

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      It helps…I think it just depends on how rough you feel it gets after using it. You have to make the call whether or not the paint has something that is gritty enough to stick to.

  6. Genevera Hunt says:

    What type of sealer did you use. It’s such a controversy to seal over latex paint.

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      I actually don’t remember…I feel like I didn’t use one at all.

  7. Thank you. You have some good tips and this is the simplest, and least toxic method, that I have seen by far. Your cabinet looks amazing!

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  12. Why oil based kilz rather than water based?

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      Oil based will stick to anything forever! Laminate and veneer is such a smooth surface that regular paint doesn’t have anything to grip to.

  13. What grit sandpaper did you use for the project?

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      Not quite sure but 120 should work fine.

      1. This post is a huge help, thank you! When you say ‘lightly sand’, do you mean by hand or with an orbital or belt sander? Thanks!

  14. This post is a huge help, thank you! When you say ‘lightly sand’, do you mean by hand or with an orbital or belt sander? Thanks!

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      You could use those but you could also use regular sandpaper.

  15. Thankyou for the detailed information! I’m hoping by sharing this with my Father (a very talented journeymen carpenter of about 45yrs, with a passion for restoring antique furniture, that is deadset against me painting this veneer dresser set) he will agree to help guide me through this process. As you can only imagine how an old school woodworker would feels about this! But I say at just $50 it was for these two, why NOT apptempt to spruce these badboys up, so thankyou again for this!
    _
    Ps. I had no idea what veneer even was until this project came along. To me there was two choice’s, either your traditional wooden furniture that was solid and heavy, or there was your “Ikea wood” lol…hallow and super light. Okay, obviously I didn’t inherite my Dad’s woodworking talent’s! But my point being that maybe the people who sold you your dressers just had no idea like I did, I just believe that most people are inherently good, and so I hope this helps you feel better about your “mistakes”~
    🙏🏻
    Lindsay Jayne

  16. What is the best way to remove black chalk paint from the tops of a chest, dresser, and nightstand? After applying, I do not like the look, and would like to go back to the wood look. I did not sand, prior to painting. Please help!

    1. Heidi @ Honeybear Lane says:

      Get some paint stripper, like Citristrip. I also have a post on how to strip wood. Check it out!

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